Al's Swinger Bar (Demolished)
Twentynine Palms, CA Photo courtesy Adriene Biondo
Hmm, what kind of place was Al’s Swinger? Despite the name, this was not that sort of bar. “Swinger” referred to owner Al Ardison’s love of swing music. The former Marine opened a friendly high-desert watering hole known for blues, karaoke, catfish dinners, and ribs.
Ardison was the first Black business owner in the Morongo Basin and made the bar a welcoming gathering place for local Marines and desert residents from all backgrounds.
UPDATE: Al’s Swinger closed shortly after Ardison died in 1999, and the old building and sign were later demolished. 09-26
Carlee's
Borrego Springs, CA Photo courtesy M.C. Morrissey
Rolling through Borrego Springs, it is hard to miss the giant boomerang arrow outside Carlee’s. The blue neon curves across the marquee and points straight toward the entrance, just in case the cold drinks and air conditioning were not enough to pull travelers in from the desert heat.
The building dates back to 1960 and originally operated as the Circle Inn Bar. It became Carlee’s in 1997, with the old roadside sign reworked for the new name. Inside, the dark roadhouse atmosphere includes pool tables, a jukebox, and a small dance floor. Burgers, steaks, and fish and chips help keep everyone around a little longer.
Carlee’s likes to remind visitors that “It’s always Cooler at Carlee’s.” That works two ways in Borrego Springs. The place has plenty of local character, but after a 115-degree afternoon outside, the air conditioning probably deserves some credit, too.
UPDATE: Carlee’s remains open as a popular Borrego Springs bar and grill. The building survives, and the big boomerang arrow sign still lights up Palm Canyon Drive after dark. 09-26
Toni's Place and Naty's Place
Brawley, CA Photo courtesy Bill Herzog
Driving along Main Street in Brawley, check out Toni’s Place and Naty’s Place sitting side by side in the same old commercial building. Two neighborhood bars, two separate doors, and two sets of signs competing for the attention of anyone heading into town. If one does not look quite right, the next choice is only a few steps away.
Naty’s Place dates back to 1954, when it was opened by Natividad “Naty” Mora. Her son, Ray Guzman, later spent more than three decades behind the bar, becoming known for his stories and conversation. The little tavern kept things simple with cold beer, wine, a pool table, and a courtyard patio.
Toni’s became its longtime neighbor, known for cold drafts and chavelas. Together, the two bars made an unusual roadside pair, each with its own regulars and personality while sharing the same stretch of wall. 12-06
UPDATE: Toni’s Place and Naty’s Place both remain open on the east end of Brawley’s Main Street. Their old storefront signs still hang above the neighboring entrances, so travelers can continue making that difficult two-door decision. 09-26
Ski Inn
Bombay Beach, CA Photo courtesy Bill Herzog
Cruising through Bombay Beach, check out the “world famous” Ski Inn near the eastern shore of the Salton Sea. The simple arrow sign points the way toward cold drinks, food, and one of the last neighborhood gathering places left from the area’s old resort days.
The Ski Inn opened in the 1950s, when water skiing was still a big attraction at the Salton Sea. That explains the name. These days it is better known for claiming to be the lowest bar in the Western Hemisphere, sitting about 223 feet below sea level. Even the drinks have to look uphill from here.
Inside, thousands of signed dollar bills cover the walls and ceiling, left behind by travelers who made the trip to Bombay Beach. Anthony Bourdain also stopped by, shared beers with the locals, and gave the patty melt his approval. Not bad publicity for a little desert tavern beside a shrinking lake.
The Ski Inn once had several neighboring bars around Bombay Beach, but storms, flooding, and the slow decline of the Salton Sea resort scene took care of the competition. Somehow, this one kept pouring. 05-08
UPDATE: The Ski Inn remains open as a bar, restaurant, and Bombay Beach gathering place. Its old roadside sign still points toward Avenue A, and the dollar-bill collection inside continues to grow. Bringing cash is still a good idea this far out in the desert. 09-26