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Neon Eateries Southern California

 

La Frite (Gone)
Sherman Oaks, CA
Photo by RoadsidePeek.com

A neon chef gave La Frite in Sherman Oaks a roadside greeting worth slowing down for. While the kitchen handled dinner, this colorful fellow worked the Ventura Boulevard crowd outside. Apparently cooking wasn’t his only responsibility.

The restaurant opened in 1972 as Yellowfingers, a French-style cafe. Around 1978, a naming dispute with a New York restaurant helped bring about the change to La Frite. The chef stayed on duty, with the sign adapted to introduce the new name.

Its neon once included animated crepes, although that feature stopped operating years before the restaurant closed. Even without the movement, the chef supplied plenty of character above the pavement.

La Frite also appeared on Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares in 2011, bringing its dining-room troubles to a much larger audience. That was quite a different kind of attention from the friendly invitation outside.

UPDATE: La Frite became the Italian restaurant Modo Mio in 2017, and the neon chef sign was removed. Modo Mio subsequently closed as well. 10-26

 

 

Mel's Drive-in (formerly Kerry's Coffee Shop)
Sherman Oaks, CA
Photo by RoadsidePeek.com

Neon gives Mel's Drive-in in Sherman Oaks plenty to say along Ventura Boulevard. The illuminated lettering and angular coffee shop architecture make an appealing combination after dark. Apparently dinner deserved a proper roadside announcement before customers reached the parking lot.

Completed in 1953, the Armet & Davis building originally housed Dyle’s Restaurant before becoming Kerry’s Coffee Shop. Its angled rooflines, generous windows, and dramatic signage show an early version of the Googie designs the architects would develop further at Norm’s La Cienega and the Holiday Bowl.

 

Mel's Drive-in
Sherman Oaks, CA
Photo courtesy Richard Weiss

The broad windows helped make the dining room part of the invitation. Passing motorists could see a restaurant waiting inside rather than just another wall along the boulevard. The building itself had a job to do, and it didn’t depend entirely on the sign.

The later conversion to Mel’s kept the property in the restaurant business, adding another layer of neon and diner nostalgia. Burgers, breakfast, and a comfortable place to sit fit naturally beneath the surviving mid-century roof. Fortunately, this former Kerry’s found another dining identity instead of a date with the bulldozer.

An unverified tale describes an old carhop-speaker crackle followed by a voice ordering a cherry soda. True story? Perhaps someone was still hoping to pay the prices from Kerry’s days.

 

Mel's Drive-in
Sherman Oaks, CA
Photo courtesy Richard Weiss

UPDATE: Here are more shots of Mel's Drive-in. Many thanks to Richard Weiss for update. 01-07

UPDATE: Mel’s remains open on Ventura Boulevard in Sherman Oaks. Its current schedule runs from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, with midnight closing on Friday and Saturday. 10-26

 

 

Millie Riera's Sea Food Grotto (Demolished)
Redondo Beach, CA
Photo courtesy Dan MacPherson

A big fish and a pointed arrow gave Millie Riera’s Sea Food Grotto a memorable introduction along Pacific Coast Highway. The sign directed customers toward the ocean, although by 2005 the restaurant had already disappeared. Apparently the arrow hadn’t received the news. 10-05

Opened in 1946 as the Vista Del Mar Sea Food Grotto, the restaurant later took Millie’s name. Its neon directional sign, installed in 1948, outlasted the dining room and became the subject of a lengthy preservation debate.

An unverified tale describes its outline appearing through coastal fog with the aroma of buttered seafood. Think this is true? Perhaps dinner was still being advertised.

UPDATE: The restaurant closed November 26, 1997, and was demolished in April 1998 for condominiums. The sign was removed in 2005 and sold to an antiques dealer at auction in 2007. 10-26

 

 

Eldorado Restaurant
Long Beach, CA
Photo courtesy Greg Wranic

Parking-lot neon gave Eldorado Restaurant in Long Beach a bright introduction after dark. Apparently a neighborhood dinner stop could put on a little show while every car beneath the sign remained parked. 10-05

Dating to 1957, the Studebaker Road restaurant became a familiar gathering place near El Dorado Park. South African native Trevor Nettmann took ownership in 2012, introducing a menu combining American and South African dishes.

UPDATE: The restaurant remains open as the Eldo on North Studebaker Road, serving American and South African fare alongside craft cocktails and local beer. 10-26

 

 

Doll Hut
Anaheim, CA
Photo courtesy Steve Snyder

A familiar neon marquee introduces Doll Hut in Anaheim, where a small building has managed to make a considerable amount of noise. The sign gives the place a roadside presence before the first amplifier gets its turn. Apparently a large concert hall wasn’t necessary to leave an impression. 11-05

The old roadhouse has passed through several identities, including the Sunkist Cafe, before taking the Doll Hut name in 1957. Its musical reputation grew considerably after Linda Jemison took over in 1989, turning the tiny venue into a gathering place for musicians and their followers.

The Pontiac Brothers had already honored the place with their 1984 album Doll Hut. Later, its story reached the screen in the documentary Down at the Doll Hut. For such a modest building, it has accumulated quite an entertainment résumé.

 

Doll Hut Sign
Anaheim, CA
Photo courtesy Bill Herzog

An unverified tale describes a trucker in an old wool cap appearing near the doorway with a coffee cup, then disappearing when an amplifier shuts off. Really? Perhaps he preferred the quieter part of the evening.

UPDATE : The Doll Hut is still rockin' in Orange County, CA. Many thanks to Bill Herzog for update and photo. 05-08

UPDATE: Doll Hut remains active on South Adams Street, with live shows continuing in 2026. After ownership changes and a 2014 reopening, the little Anaheim venue is still giving bands a place to play. 10-26

 

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© Copyright 1998-2023 Syd Nagoshi. All rights reserved. No portion of this document may be reproduced, copied or revised without written permission of the author.